Santiago Atitlan
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Tikal
Santiago Atitlan
Maya peoples of the Guatemala highlands include the Quiche, Mam, Pocomam, Caqchikel, Ixil, Kekchi, Tzutuhil, 
Jacaltec, and Xinca. While it is generally agreed that while there were indigenous peoples spread throughout Mesoamerica by the year 10,000 BC., for all intents and purposes the first major settlements of the Guatemalan Highlands by organized groups didn't happen until the migration of Toltec (Mexican) related groups into the region in the 9th and 10th centuries.
Accounts of this settlement can be found principally in two books written by two of the principal tribes of the region; the Popul Vuh, which details the history of the Ki'che tribe, and Annals of Solola, an amazing account written by the grandson of the last king of the Cak'chi'quel in the 16th century. Today, the principal tribes are the Ki'che, the Caqchikel and the Tzutuhil, based respectively in Chichicastenango, Solola and Santiago Atitlan.
Long before Santiago Atitlan existed, the capital of this Tzu'tujil tribal region was called Chiya, and was the seat of power for the Tzikinajai moiety, the main group that was in control of this fortress. They ruled over the rest of the Tzutujil tribe, and levied tribute over the rest of the groups in the area, including Chucumuc, the largest of the "peoples villages". At times the different moiety groups rebelled and tried to break free of the T'zikinajai influence (a couple of years before the conquest the T'zikinajai king hired Caqchiquel mercenaries to put down an uprising in Chucumuk.)
but Chiya continued to be the capitol until the Spanish made everyone move to the current site of Santiago. It is located on a small hill across the bay from Santiago Atitlan. Although most of the buildings have eroded through the years, you can still clearly see the pyramids, plazas, and carvings that made this one of the most resplendent places in Guatemala at the time of the conquest.
Today, this bustling indigenous town is home to nearly 35,000 people. The "Atitecos", as they are called locally, are justifiably famous for their weaving, their art, their excellent coffee and their political independence. The idea of visiting Guatemala without crossing Lake Atitlan and visiting Santiago Atitlan makes as much sense as visiting France and not walking the Champs Eleysee. While the kids can be a bother and the town is generally noisy and dirty, the artisans of Santiago Atitlan are head and shoulders about the rest... and this is their home.
Swarms of tourists visit Santiago Atitlan daily, and the streets leading up to the center of town are lined with shops selling weavings, carvings and paintings. By far the most striking building in town is the Catholic church with its bell tower. Parts of the structure probably date back to 1571, about two hundred years before the United States became a nation. While most visitors come just for the day from Panajachel, there's absolutely no reason not to spend the night and enjoy the cool mountain air, hear the dogs bark across the lake, and wake up to the clear blue skies and coiling smoke from 1,000 wood burning stoves of Santiago Atitlan.
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Tropical Travel Association
Barrio Jucanya - Panajachel, Guatemala 01070 ~ tel: ++502-5412-0014 & ++502-5583-8328 contact us
© 2006 Duncan Aitken ...however, students and teachers
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